So You Want To Take The Train Across The US

I hate flying. I hate airports. I hate being stuck in a metal tube hurtling through the air, smashed together with 150 other humans like sardines. I hate the frantic pace of getting through airport security, with the person behind you breathing down your neck while the TSA agent yells at you, then running to the gate only to sit and wait. I hate how takeoff and landing feel in my body (thanks, POTS). I hate the petri dish feeling of airports and planes.

As you might imagine, this has really curtailed any vacations more than a few hours away.

Earlier this year, we decided we wanted to visit the Pacific Northwest again; we had been to Portland and part of the central-ish Oregon coast in 2018, and Seattle and the Olympic Peninsula in 2024. Both times, we've really loved the area - mossy trees, gentle temperatures, sea views, amazing food scene, great coffee...but it's a hell of a distance to drive, gas prices are insane, and there are no direct flights from Des Moines in late August.

Then I had the idea to take the train.

We have enjoyed the idea of taking a train trip in the past, but other than quick rides when we were much younger, neither of us has seriously taken the train. We've even visited more than one train museum! We like trains! But unless you live on the East Coast (or, as we later learned, very rurally), most Americans just don't see train travel as a realistic means of long-distance transportation.

The more I thought about taking the train, the more the appeal grew - and the more the logistics puzzle grew, too. I don't eat gluten or dairy; I have some mobility issues; I need to drink 2-3L of water per day...If I couldn't eat the food on the train, what did I need to bring? Where should I sit for the best access during the trip? Was I going to be able to sleep at all in Coach?

As we were preparing for the trip, I kept thinking that I needed to write about the experience - I knew I couldn't be the only one asking really specific questions! So, this post series is the result: answers to all the extremely specific scenarios that I wondered about. I hope it helps others enjoy their Amtrak trip!

Here's what is included in this series:

• A few details on Amtrak and the Empire Builder route, my mindset for the trip, and a few resources (this post!)
• Eating on the train with limitations and sleeping for multiple nights in Coach
• Getting around the train (bathrooms, stairs, etc.) and accessibility information
• Future entries:
  • Cautions, strategies, and other miscellaneous tips, including suggested items to pack, and things to do to keep you busy for two days
  • Okay, but why the heck would you do this trip? Also, price details

Amtrak & the Empire Builder

Amtrak has 15 long-distance train routes (defined as 750 or more miles). The Empire Builder is the 3rd longest route, beaten only by the Texas Eagle (Chicago <--> LA, 2,728 miles) and the California Zephyr (Chicago <--> Emeryville, CA, 2,438 miles). I think a lot of people in other countries kind of give Americans the stink eye for not using the train, but the distance for some routes is enormous compared to most other train routes!

The Empire Builder is 2,257 miles (3632 km) from Chicago to Portland, slightly less if you take the Seattle branch. If you hop on the train in Minneapolis, like we did, it is 1,432 miles (approximately 2304 km) - or about the distance of taking a train from Paris to Bucharest, a route that doesn't exist. The entire Empire Builder route takes about 46 hours if everything runs on time; it's about 37 hours from Minneapolis.

One of the biggest variables with Amtrak is delays. Amtrak trains run on regular freight rails, so freight trains get priority; this can often end up in short delays throughout the trip, which can accumulate and end up in an hour or two delay at the end. Other delays happen if there are equipment issues or problems on the tracks - things that no one can plan for. And, when you're in the middle of nowhere Montana, there's no realistic Plan B; you just need to wait. (If the delay is long enough, Amtrak will reroute you to a bus, but that is for significant delays.)

Mindset For The Trip

You cannot be in a hurry. Once you are on the train, you are on it until you get off it. There's probably no internet or cell reception. There may or may not be delays. Enjoy the adventure.

After we started, I realized that taking the train for a long distance is a bit like camping: a bit uncomfortable, you may not sleep well, things (including your body!) may not be as clean as you'd like, the food is meh, yet somehow, it's still a fun adventure. The upside is: camping gear comes in handy on the train too!

Conversely, you're trapped on the train. So, take some time to plan for your comfort and your particular requirements. Do you need specific food? Medications or health needs? Mobility issues? Are you sensitive to smells, sounds, or something else? Do you run hot or cold? I try to give some answers to some of these specifics in these posts, but think about what will help you be comfortable and get creative!

Resources

Here are example layouts of the Superliner cars. Ours were a little bit different in one direction, but the general layout was the same.

You can look up the arrival/departure times for every train in your selected timeframe on this website. I used it to find the estimated late arrival for our route.

The Amtrak subreddit is very active and will answer questions, but also just search - there have been many, many "this is my first time" posts!

Amtrak has lots of information about its accessibility services.